 |
Woodworking Online
|
| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
NoOne N Particular
Guest
|
 Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 2:35 am Post subject: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
 |
|
I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.
I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB
I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.
Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?
Wayne |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
max
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 3:41 am Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
I too had a collection of blades, until I bought the Forrest WW11. I found
that I no longer changed blades. I used that blade for everything. It is the
best blade I have ever used.
max
| Quote: |
I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.
I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB
I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.
Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?
Wayne
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Leon
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 4:10 am Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
"NoOne N Particular" <twoblues@pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:eg4td.55319> Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest
quality, but good)
| Quote: |
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?
|
CALL FORREST... They will build and grind the teeth on a blade just about
any way you would want it. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Leon
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 4:12 am Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
"max" <agi733@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:BDDA2099.38D51%agi733@earthlink.net...
| Quote: |
I too had a collection of blades, until I bought the Forrest WW11. I found
that I no longer changed blades. I used that blade for everything. It is
the
best blade I have ever used.
max
|
Except that it leaves a "V" bottom and the OP wants a flat bottom. Check
the last sentence in the first paragraph. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 4:19 am Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"
<twoblues@pacbell.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.
I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB
I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.
Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?
Wayne
|
you likely will have to have it made. it's no big deal, and the cost
will not be as bad as you think. look first for a local sharpening
shop near you. if your town doesn't have one or they don't get it
about building blades like that, look on the web. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
max
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 4:51 am Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
They will grind your blade any way you want.
| Quote: |
"max" <agi733@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:BDDA2099.38D51%agi733@earthlink.net...
I too had a collection of blades, until I bought the Forrest WW11. I found
that I no longer changed blades. I used that blade for everything. It is
the
best blade I have ever used.
max
Except that it leaves a "V" bottom and the OP wants a flat bottom. Check
the last sentence in the first paragraph.
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Nova
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 5:33 am Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
NoOne N Particular wrote:
<snipped>
| Quote: |
I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.
|
I would think a good sharpening service should be able to grind and set the
teeth any way you'd like?
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
BobS
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 5:46 am Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
Surprised no one has suggested using the end blades form a dado set like the
Freud 508. It has two 8" x 1/8" outer blades that leave a nice flat-bottom
groove and I use those. You may not need or want an 8" dado set so drop
back to the Freud (or whoever) 6" set and you'll have solved the problem and
end up with a nice dado set at the same time.
Bob S.
"NoOne N Particular" <twoblues@pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:eg4td.55319$QJ3.26982@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com...
| Quote: |
I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from
24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all
of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them
leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.
I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I
have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB
I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found
so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that
would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80)
and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre
joints,
etc.
Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but
good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?
Wayne
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Prometheus
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 7:52 am Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"
<twoblues@pacbell.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.
I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB
I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.
Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?
|
It's been a good long while since I worked in the sharpening business,
but you might talk to your local sharpening service about the "triple
chip" style blades. They're basically an alternating tooth set where
the high tooth has the corners knocked off at 45 degrees on each side,
and the low tooth (.01" lower) is flat. While that's not going to
give you a *perfectly* flat-bottomed kerf, it'd be a lot closer than
the standard crosscut tooth set. IIRC, these saws were for mitre
cuts, but like I said, you'd want to talk to your local sharpening
service before jumping on it- they make the suckers for a living, so
they're usually a fount of information.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
mac davis
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 12:32 pm Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"
<twoblues@pacbell.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.
I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB
I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.
Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?
Wayne
one side of a dado set? |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
mac davis
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 12:33 pm Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 20:52:29 -0600, Prometheus
<noneofyer@business.org> wrote:
| Quote: |
On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:35:06 GMT, "NoOne N Particular"
twoblues@pacbell.net> wrote:
I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.
I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB
I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.
Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?
It's been a good long while since I worked in the sharpening business,
but you might talk to your local sharpening service about the "triple
chip" style blades. They're basically an alternating tooth set where
the high tooth has the corners knocked off at 45 degrees on each side,
and the low tooth (.01" lower) is flat. While that's not going to
give you a *perfectly* flat-bottomed kerf, it'd be a lot closer than
the standard crosscut tooth set. IIRC, these saws were for mitre
cuts, but like I said, you'd want to talk to your local sharpening
service before jumping on it- they make the suckers for a living, so
they're usually a fount of information.
Wayne
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
I think HF calls that a "novelty" blade... |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Lawrence Wasserman
Guest
|
| Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2004 12:04 am Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
In article <eg4td.55319$QJ3.26982@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com>,
NoOne N Particular <twoblues@pacbell.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
I have several table saw blades in my "collection". I have Combination
blades, "Satin Finish" blades, plywood blades, and rip blades. I have
carbide tipped and plain steel blades. I have blades with anywhere from 24
to 80 teeth, and plywood blades with 100 and even 200 teeth. Almost all of
them are the ATB variety with one or two TCG grinds. And none of them leave
a flat bottom standard width kerf.
I have looked at blades in the orange and blue borgs and they are
practically all ATB grinds that will not leave a flat-bottomed kerf. I have
not been able to find any ATBR grinds at all. From what I have read, ATBR
still doesn't leave a FLAT bottomed kerf, but better than ATB
I guess what I am after is a blade with a FTG grind, but it appears that
these are mainly blades used for ripping (the only ones that I have found so
far), generally have around 24 teeth, and a hellashous rake angle that would
be bad for crosscuts. I am looking for a blade with more teeth (60-80) and
a reduced rake angle that I can use for cross-cuts. Things like cutting
tenons on the table saw, 1/8" wide groves for keyed or splined mitre joints,
etc.
Anyone know of a good quality (doesn't have to be Forrest quality, but good)
10" blade that will leave a nice, clean, flat-bottomed, 1/8" kerf on a
cross-cut that only goes part way through the wood?
Wayne
|
If you have a decent sharpening service in your area, you can have
them grind an ATB/raker combination blade so all the teeth including
the rakers are the same height. I'm just guessing here that this will
give better results than having all the teeth on an ATB or general
purpose blade ground flat accross the top.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
lwasserm@charm.net |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Charlie Self
Guest
|
| Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2004 1:06 am Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
Lew Wasserman writes:
| Quote: |
If you have a decent sharpening service in your area, you can have
them grind an ATB/raker combination blade so all the teeth including
the rakers are the same height. I'm just guessing here that this will
give better results than having all the teeth on an ATB or general
purpose blade ground flat accross the top.
|
And the raker will probably be a triple chip grind (TCG) to clean up the middle
of the slot.
There are a few of those out there. Checking the blade manufacturers' sites
might help the OP find what he wants without a regrind. I know that Infinity
has such a grind, in their combination blade, with what they call a chamfered
raker tooth that doesn't have quite as distinct a tombstone shape as do most
TCG tips. www.infinitytools.com Freud has a flat top grind raker blade in some
of their LU84 series blades. Bosch has a new series of blades that is not yet
shown on their web site. Amana seems to me to be another with that type of
configuration. Most seem to be in the combination blade arena, NOT the general
use blade area, all with fairly agressive tooth angles--14 degs. up to about 18
degs.
Charlie Self
"Vote: the instrument and symbol of a freeman's power to make a fool of himself
and a wreck of his country." Ambrose Bierce |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
robdingnagian1
Guest
|
| Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2004 2:00 am Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
Charlie Self wrote:
| Quote: |
Freud has a flat top grind raker blade in some
of their LU84 series blades.
|
Now that you bring this up, can someone please shed some light on their
different series'
I have a Freud LU84R011 10" x 50-Tooth Combination Blade on my table
saw and love it.
I also have a 12" Freud Diablo for my Bosch CMS and a 7 1/4" on one of
my circular saws. They are both very solid performers.
I also have a Forrest WWII thin kerf which I have yet to use.
I have searched for rip blades and crosscut blades and have shopped
what seems like dozens of different red, chrome, black, metal colored,
etc. Freud blades. They seem to be all over the place in pricing. In
shopping for Freud blades, what is the pecking order in the different
series? I don't suppose that I want to put a Diablo on my table saw.
Any light on the subject would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Eric T |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
J
Guest
|
| Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2004 2:06 am Post subject: Re: Table Saw Blade Selection. |
|
|
| Quote: |
Now that you bring this up, can someone please shed some light on their
different series'
I have a Freud LU84R011 10" x 50-Tooth Combination Blade on my table
saw and love it.
I also have a 12" Freud Diablo for my Bosch CMS and a 7 1/4" on one of
my circular saws. They are both very solid performers.
I also have a Forrest WWII thin kerf which I have yet to use.
I have searched for rip blades and crosscut blades and have shopped
what seems like dozens of different red, chrome, black, metal colored,
etc. Freud blades. They seem to be all over the place in pricing. In
shopping for Freud blades, what is the pecking order in the different
series? I don't suppose that I want to put a Diablo on my table saw.
Any light on the subject would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Eric T
|
Since you already have a Forrest WWII, why not put it on the saw and be done
with it?
-j |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
|
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in