Woodworking Online

[Alan]

My intention is to manufacture a pin chuck from a small faceplate to
hold half logs and the like. I know a very proficient welder to
attache the bar and will true it up on a lathe.

My question is, what approximate dimensions has anyone found to be
suitable?

My initial thoughts are (with approx conversions) about 25mm (1")
diameter x 50mm (2") long for the large bar that holds the pin. A
flat section for the pin to be 30mm (1-1/4") long. Is a 5mm (3/16")
diameter x 29mm (1-3/16") pin large enough?

Many thanks,
Alan

[l.vanderloo@rogers.com]

Hi Alan

The dimensions are OK and you can use a pin chuck as long as you keep
that tailstock in your way to keep the turning on that pin chuck.
But why use a pin chuck ??
I'd rather use a woodworm screw, it gives you more flexibility in
working without the tailstock in your way, is also very easy to install
and use, have a look at one of my albums and see for your self.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum27.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

[JYS31]

Hi Alan,

Like Leo, I must admit that I prefer the screw chuck ...
I have actually built a pin chuck with # your dimensions and tried to
use it several times with "big logs" (at least big for my lathe : # 30
cm diam) :
-> after several times, the pin rolled and the log loosened (maybe the
wood - cherry, cypress - was too soft or not dry enough for this kind
of chuck).
I even tried to accentuate the slot and change accordingly the pin size
.... but, even if that became better, it "couldn't get now satisfaction"
and the log began to chatter once again ...

Maybe some other users can explain why the pin chuck is able to work
well ?

Have nice shavings :-)

JYS31

[George]

"Alan" <alan@acrux.not_really.com> wrote in message
news:n9n902h3ua1fonfloh2ft9apfdn88vkp1k@4ax.com...

[Tom Nie]

Hey guys,
'Scuse my ignorance. I'm not following this pin chuck thing. George, how
does this thing grab the piece? Saw your picture and it just looks like a
tiny pin penetrating the bottom for grip. That's not impressive.

I thought this "pin chuck" would be the equivalent of a a 2x4 with nails on
the ends to grab a log to begin turning a foot or chuck grabbing surface.
Then proceeding as normal. In a case where the screw chuck would penetrate
too deeply. I guess I'm just lost on this one. Maybe need another cup of
coffee to wake up:).

TomNie

[George]

"Tom Nie" <tomnie@charter.net> wrote in message
news:JchNf.126$O24.37@fe06.lga...

[Wally]

The pin chuck is an excellent tool to have and use. It works well for
natural edge bowls such as a half-log or a burl where a faceplate or a
screw center won't work. My first one was a part of a unit made in the
UK called a "6 in One" tool, which preceded the 4-jaw scroll chuck
that's so popular today. It's 1-inch in dia. and has a flat area near
the end. The "pin" I use is a short piece of a 16 penny nail. To use
the pin chuck, bore a 1-inch hole with a forstner bit into the blank.
With the "chuck" installed on the spindle, and with the pin in place on
the flat area, slide the blank onto the chuck. Roll the blank just a
little, and the pin rolls and locks the blank sucurely. I sometimes use
the tailstock for support. You can then turn the foot area of the blank
with a tenon or a flat area for a glue block or whatever. My current
pin chuck was made for me by John Nichols, and is threaded to go onto
my spindle.

Wally
Alan wrote:

[l.vanderloo@rogers.com]

Hi Wally

Wally how is it that you can drill a hole and put your blank on a pin,
but you would not be able to screw it on that pin if it had thread on
it, inquering minds like to know, also how is a unbalanced wet half-log
or burl safely held on a 1" or 1.5" long smooth pin without a tailstock
to keep it from sliding off, as your tool hits a harder spot or wing,
the wood will be jerked back and then surge forward, back and fort,
back and forth.
There is a reason why 4 Jaw chucks and wood screws are popular, and
it's not for their cost.
Also the brought up nonsense of the woodworm screw rusting, it is BS,
if it would rust under normal use, which it does NOT, it would not rust
any more that a pin chuck, if this rust is a problem for some one, they
are made in stainless steel version also.
I use a Oneway woodworm in all kinds of wood, like red and white oak,
black cherry, etc. It was for this rust claim that I put up the photo
album to show the non existing rust.
Also the album with the woodworm screw, it safely holds a large
half-log blank without the need of tailstock support.
However there are some that want to keep spreading misleading
information.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum27.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

[Wally]

Believe me Leo, it does work! I've used the pin chuck many times.

The pin chuck is usually 1 inch in dia. and about 3 to 4 inches long. I
drill the hole in wood around 2 inches deep. The pin chuck should
bottom out in the hole, which makes it secure and quite solid. With the
tool rest perhaps 1/2 inch from the wood, the blank can't possible back
off the pin chuck. However, the tailstock does make it more secure.
Using a screw center (which I use a lot in other ways) on an uneven or
round surface doesn't work well, especiall if the wood or even bark
isn't solid

I don't understand your comments in the form of a reply on the wormwood
screw and using a 4-jaw chuck. None of that was mentioned in my post.

Leo, I started turning 70 years ago and I've taught woodturning to
many, many students and I don't spread misleading information.

Wally Dickerman

[l.vanderloo@rogers.com]

Hi Wally

You are saying that your toolrest is preventing the wood from coming of
the chuck ??
I would not want to stand there if the wood grabs onto the toolrest,
something is going to move real quickly, also if the wood is not solid
the pin chuck would not hold either in my estimation, and bark should
be removed in any case.
Didn't you say "a tool that preceded the 4 -jaw scroll chuck that's so
popular today" ??.
The so called rust problem is in this thread and brought up before, not
by you.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum27.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

[George]

"Wally" <jawal7@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1141233715.378726.111280@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...

[George]

<l.vanderloo@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:1141247959.041095.20240@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...

[Wally]

Leo, it seems to me that you are arguing about something that you
obviously know nothing about. The pin chuck has been around and
successfully used for many, many years. They are even sold now in 3/8
inch size for turning bottle stoppers. I've been using mine since the
early 80's The pin chuck is a much solider, safer tool to use on a
soft, wet piece of wood than any grub screw.

Axminster manufactures a pin chuck designed to be used in their scroll
chuck.

I seldom use a tailstock when using a pin chuck. I've done it dozens of
times and have never had a problem.

I don't know how long you've been turning, but the 4-jaw scoll chuck
came on the market somewhere around 1990. I have one of the early Nova
chucks. The "6 in One" tool was sold in the 70's and 80's. It is
actually a collet chuck with attachments including a pin chuck. I
still have mine but it gathers dust.

Wally Dickerman

[l.vanderloo@rogers.com]

Hi Wally

Yes Pole lathes, hook tools, spike chucks and pin chucks have been used
for a long time,
Some are still used, maybe all, that still does not tell me that a
woodworm can not be use where a pin chuck is used, and you are of
course entitled to your opinion that a pin chuck is a much safer chuck
in a soft wet piece of wood, I just don't deal your opinion.
It has it's place, like in bottle stop turning or butt vases, or in
conjunction with a tailstock for larger pieces.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

[Alan]

I appreciate everyone's input and have a further question. In the
photo George posted earlier (closeup of the pin chuck) the recess
appears to be hollowed, ie not simply a milled flat section as you may
find on a shaft to accept a grub screw from whatever slides onto the
shaft.

I was considering having the recess flat bottomed for ease of
manufacture, though I expect avoiding the pin rolling off may present
a challenge. Any reason, other than ease of assembly that supports a
need for a hollowed recess?

Thanks,
Alan