Woodworking Online

[B. Kelsey]

Hello Group,

I'm in the process of making some wine glasses. I purchased the wine glasses
from Craft Supplies and I'm about to turn the stem parts out of wood. Craft
Supply recommends using silicone for an adhesive to bond the wood to the glass.
I've read that the silicone will not cure properly unless it is exposed to the
air and turners that have used silicone have had bonding failures. I've thought
about using flexible ca but I don't know if that would do the job either. I
would appreciate if anyone could give me advice on how to bond the glass to the
wood.

Thank you,
Basil Kelsey
Ypsilanti, Mi.

[Leif Thorvaldson]

Have you considered TiteBond? Never used it for your situation, but it
sure glues almost everything to everything!


Leif
"B. Kelsey" <bazbass@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040417134857.11362.00000003@mb-m19.aol.com...

[B. Kelsey]

Leif,
If you're referring to TiteBond carpenter's glue I don't think that would work
on glass.

Basil
Basil Kelsey
Ypsilanti, Mi.

[AHilton]

As usual, it really depends on more factors than just gluing wood to glass.
Here's a couple of generic things I've used in different situations when
doing my (glass/wood) goblets...

Thin section joint
- Such as joining it at the stem section and not coming up around the glass
"bowl" section a little bit.
- Must have a really strong and non-brittle glue.

Wide section joint
- Have to be concerned about wood movement *maybe* depending on the wood
used; thickness of the wood at the wood/glass joint; whether it's going to
travel (made in the desert but shipped to Miami for example); assuming the
wood is dry to start with.
- Don't have to have as strong of glue as there is some mechanical joining
with this type of joint.
- Must be concerned, especially with clear glass, with what the glue will
look like when viewed through the glass.

Polyurethane
- Works well bonding glass to wood.
- Plenty strong enough.
- Foams easily so it's tough to control it from coming out the sides.
- Looks bad when viewed through the glass into the wood/glass joint even if
it doesn't foam.

CA
- Strong enough for all but the most thin of joint
- Even the "flexible" CA's get too brittle for thin joints used like this.
- Fairly clear in the better brands so it can be used for viewing under
glass
- May have problems with bonding to oily woods. This can be overcome though.

Silicone
- Not strong enough for thin section joint.
- Clear
- Works well for wide section joint types.

Epoxy
- Certainly strong enough (the long set time ones at least) for about
anything
- Clear but you can get air pockets when mixing. Spread it thin to help
correct this.
- Works well bonding wood to glass

No clear answers but I hope this helps anyway,

- Andrew




"B. Kelsey" <bazbass@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040417134857.11362.00000003@mb-m19.aol.com...

[B. Kelsey]

Andrew,

Thank you for responding to my question. It sounds like epoxy might be the way
to go. The glass calls for a fairly deep pocket, about 1/2 an inch. I'm going
to use ash for the wood type. Thank you again for your input, it's most
appreciated.

Basil
Basil Kelsey
Ypsilanti, Mi.

[dklima]

I have used epoxy with good results. I haven't gotten the glass from Craft
Supplies. I just get wine glasses from Pier 1 or a similar place - I think
mine cost a couple of dollars each. Then I score the stem a little below
the bowl and break it off there. Then I grind the exposed end on my wet
grinder to smooth the break and epoxy the stub of a stem in a hole I bore in
the top of my stem. So far that's worked for me. I have not done much
sending my wine glasses from Nebraska to any tropical rain forest or desert,
so I don't know how the change in humidity would affect the joint. I have
used exotic woods mostly - Ebony, Purple Heart, Red Heart, etc., but I have
done a few in Pin Oak - all with good results with epoxy.

Have fun!
- Dan


"B. Kelsey" <bazbass@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040417185411.01239.00000023@mb-m23.aol.com...

[Henry]

Take a look at this web site for gluing various substances togeather
http://www.thistothat.com/ Good luck.


"B. Kelsey" <bazbass@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040417134857.11362.00000003@mb-m19.aol.com...

[Kevin Neelley]

Basil,

I have used clear silicone sealant for exactly the same purpose and have had no
problems even after ten years.

Kevin Neelley
http://www.turnedwood.com

In article <20040417134857.11362.00000003@mb-m19.aol.com>, B. Kelsey says...

[Leif Thorvaldson]

D'oh! I meant Weldbond Glue, not Titebond! Go to this URL:
http://www.franktross.com/weldbond.asp
While their check on the link for the Worlds Biggest Bowl. The Proserpine
Turners Group http://www.proswoodturning.homestead.com/Index.html is
something else. I suspect they might be Australia's version of our Texans!
Wonderful photos and written description of how they built a lathe from
scratch using an old farm tractor to drive it. They used Weldbond to glue
up the segments! I have used Weldbond in my "small" way and it has managed
to glue everything to anything I have wanted. Dries clear.

Leif
"B. Kelsey" <bazbass@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040417134857.11362.00000003@mb-m19.aol.com...

[B. Kelsey]

Henry, Kevin and leif,
Thank you all for the great tips.

Leif that's one big bowl. Thank you for the link. It was really cool and just
think of all the LDD that they used on it!
Basil Kelsey
Ypsilanti, Mi.